Slow, Loud & Bangin'

The Friday Cookbook embraces flavors that take a while

Okay, listen.

It’s fall.

We’re all excited about it—at least, the all the truly basic among us who’ve been waiting all summer for a time of hot coffee, cable-knit sweaters, falling leaves and seasonal flavors. These first couple weeks of fall are a glorious time, before we notice how early it’s getting dark and realize that we’ve made a huge mistake and actually fall is bad and it’s not going to be light again until April.

It’s a time to celebrate, but you’ve got to ease into it.

You need a transition into fall. Sure, we can start mixing in heartier food and heavier drink, start rolling out the unique specialties of the season, but if you go Full Pumpkin Spice from Day One, you’re gonna sprain something. (This isn’t some hack Denis Leary type “argle bargle pumpkin spice!” nonsense—I enjoy a PSL as much as the next person—it’s just a matter of proper conditioning.)

You’ve got to take it slow. Let’s set the tone.