The sublime madness of tomato season

The summer finds a way to redeem itself, in food and drink.

I feel like I’ve said something to this effect in every Friday intro I’ve written lately, but July has been especially brutal this year from a weather standpoint. (I am not, at the moment, acknowledging all the other standpoints from which it has also been bad, except to note that they exist.) We’ve either had unbearable heat and humidity or drenching, …

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