1. pizza activist. the best pizza I ever had was at the fancy Italian restaurant on the Disney Fantasy. The waiter came out and asked us "do you-a mind if-a the chef sends you out a pizza?" and we were both like "what kind of question is that? of course!" he brought out a white pie with bleu cheese and grapes on it, and, hand to god, it was the best thing ever. more finely, I'm a toppings anarchist and a dough/sauce leftist, if only because I'm skeptical about whether or not Chicago style (delicious no doubt) is pizza or a doughy casserole.
It makes sense to me as well - if for no other reason than I was struck, when I moved to Providence from LA, that even the local pizza places that were supposedly "just okay" were providing pretty decent pizza for the money.
I am a free spirit when it comes to pizza. Put on what you like! The only thing I don't like on a pizza is onion, but that's a matter of overall preference. I've come around to peppers, as a kid that was a deal breaker. I prefer a thicker crust, but will eat a tavern cut if it's on the plate.
Being so open to toppings and styles, I guess that means I don't have a favorite. Artichoke might be the most underappreciated topping on a pizza, while pepperoni would get my vote for most overrated. Too much and the pie ends up a rag full of grease.
Also, wanted to say that I loved your kids' craftsmanship. I kinda figured they would just throw every last topping you put out like kids tend to do when given a plethora of options, creating a mess of inedible dough, cheese and toppings. We usually have to limit the choices to 3 or 4.
I was ready for a long winded diatribe about how the Constitution was a living document and that pizza is too. Thankfully you will not terrorize me with strict/originalist (complete white guy BS)/liberal/activist theories. And leave the pizza be.
Pizza Express in Cadiz, OH would be my origin pizzeria. It's a take out place that just seems to get it right with the sauce, cheese, pepperoni/mushrooms. Which would also be the origin point for my pizza experience. Truth be told, when Costco and Sam's Club made their take and bake pizzas (RIP) they served as the blank canvas for many experiments and additional toppings.
Pizza is suppose to be fun, communal, and serve either the lead in a dinner or the accompanying side to an experience. If you can make the flavors work, go for whatever toppings you want. You should always be able to get a slice some place at any time of day.
I live now in the SW Burbs of Chicago, and let me tell you:
I miss slices of pizza.
Everything here is tavern style -- no crusts, cut into weird squares and the random rounded outside pieces, and while I appreciate that all pizzas (tavern-style, deep dish, Detroit-style, etc.) have their time and place and can be good, what I really want is a slice with a crust. Tavern style all the time is an abomination.
My platonic ideal of pizza is probably something Neopolitan/wood-fired/brick-oven style -- thin crust, red sauce that avoids being sweet, mozzarella (bonus for burrata or buffalo mozzarella), some basil, perhaps some soppressata/pepperoni. Basically a Margherita or Rosso Diavolo. I'll go with a less-traditional pizza happily on occasion (figs/pears/gorgonzola, my wife makes a great BLT pizza, perhaps one with chicken) but the Neopolitan style is definitely my go-to ideal preference.
As a kid, my platonic ideal was a deep dish Meat Lovers from Pizza Hut. Even at non-chain pizza joints, I tend to gravitate towards the carnivorous varieties; however, I’m game to try most any pizza topping. Vegetable-heavy toppings are the exception, as I have a reaction to the texture of certain vegetables on a pizza. As far as style goes: Neapolitan, chain (except Papa John’s), local pie slinger - I’ll eat any style.
I have to send a shout-out to a local restaurant that features a pear-and-brie pizza on their menu. I have had it many times, and let e tell you, it is good.
Greek style pizza is widely available throughout the Northeast (anyplace that has “Town” House of Pizza is more likely than not, Greek) and will forever be my baseline for pizza judgment (love you Gorham House of Pizza).
As the lone adventurous eater in the family, it’s hard to do a whole pie with some non-traditional toppings. The one exception is from Otto in Portland Maine: mashed potato, bacon, scallion and cheddar (it pairs well with their butternut squash, ricotta and cranberry pie).
When we make pizza at home, we’ll let the kids make their own creations (often times splitting a package of pepperoni between the two of them if we’re not watching close enough) and my wife and I will go off the rails. The last one we did was a garlic/herb cheese base with shaved Brussels sprouts, prosciutto and once out of the pizza oven (Webber on high) topped with more sprouts and balsamic glaze.
Sign me up for all types of pizza/pies including covered meat pies aka pot pies.
I’ll even eat pizza made on bagels or tortillas.
I do try avoid mushrooms, anchovies and other things not related to edible substances.
Best part of this column is that you got the kids involved in something you enjoy. Can’t wait to see their pancake shapes and burrito creations in future newsletters. Geaux ActionCookingWithChildren
Oct 19, 2022·edited Oct 19, 2022Liked by Scott Hines
I'm closer to your friend than to you I'm sorry to say. I'm a stickler that to be called pizza it has to have bread, sauce and cheese, but I'd allow any topping under the sun as long as those are the base. Anything else is a flatbread. It could be delicious! But it's flatbread.
then they are pizzas! (in my estimation). And truthfully it's due to a failing in my brain where I assume that if a restaurant says pizza then it comes and there isn't bread sauce and cheese I'm terribly disappointed.
I will never forget when I found out that my preferred hometown pizza place—there were a number local spots within driving distance of our house, god bless New Jersey, so we often rotated who picked which spot—changed their sauce. This sauce had persisted through multiple name changes, including, originally and hilariously, Chicken Kitchen. When I left for my freshman year of college, it had been the same as always: slightly sweeter than average and very garlic forward. And importantly, it was undeniably fresh as hell.
When I returned home, college girlfriend in tow, I was so excited to show it to her. And then I bit in and it was… just some obviously jarred shit. Not bad (it’s New Jersey pizza, making that bad is nearly impossible), but just… average. I was devastated, my girlfriend thought it was exquisite (she was from the Midwest having a Jersey slice for the first time so she can be forgiven), and I’ll never forgive them.
Rumor around town is that there had been a family spot, and the family member that broke away took the pizza sauce with them. No one even thought to ask me to mediate (I would not have been helpful). Anyways, you didn’t really ask this but it’s absolutely part of my Pizza Cognition (“real” pizza is New York/New Jersey style, everything is is whatever).
My theory is that your rigidity around pizza is tied to where you're from. Are you from a place where pizza is part of the cultural fabric (i.e., where Italian immigrants typically settled in America)? If so, you probably have a traditionalist view of pizza shaped by the people who made it, consciously and subconsciously. People not from those areas have less baggage around what belongs on pizza because pizza isn't part of your heritage or sense of place.
However, despite being a New Yorker, I have a pretty open-mind about pizza. I love the geographical variation of pizza - Chicago deep dish, chicago thin crust, detroit-style, trendy-Neapolitan-style are all great. I'm open to a variation of toppings but generally believe that the typical toppings are typical because they're the best. My most traditionalist take is the fruit (other than tomatoes, obviously) does not belong on pizza. But do what you like! Not here to shame people for doing ham and pineapple on pizza, I just won't be splitting it with you.
My ideal pizza? Well, it simply doesn't get better than a chicken parm slice and cheese slice from a proper New York (metro area) pizzeria .
Since I was able to order my own pizza age always was meat lovers, the more protein the better until the last few months. Recently have just taken to ordering the simple pepperoni. A thing I do prefer is that if it’s a crispier pizza it’s cut into smaller squares to allow for ease of handing. Pizza place by high school knew my name and order because of that order request.
Rocco’s Pizza in South Bend, IN is the definition of pizza for me. It goes beyond the pies, though, in that’s it’s an important community space. The owners, Linda and Warren, are excited to see you when you visit home. It’s basically impossible to go without running into several tables of people you know. The pizza is great, and even reminds my New Jersey dad of “the old neighborhood,” which is a tough test. But it’s the people that make it special.
Growing up in Chicago in the 1980s/90s, I had a dual definition of pizza: Chicago-style and Dominos. I still eat the former on occasion when visiting Chi-town, but haven't had the latter in...decades, I think? These days I'm definitely a pizza activist like you, Scott. The more the merrier!
I'm very glad this isn't a discussion of Chicago hotdish versus Detroit Square Pizza versus New York Greasy Pita etc.
I appreciate that pizza itself is very versatile, and I think it's fun to experiment with the core concept of the cheese delivery system.
Yes!!! I can enjoy any if wellmade!
1. pizza activist. the best pizza I ever had was at the fancy Italian restaurant on the Disney Fantasy. The waiter came out and asked us "do you-a mind if-a the chef sends you out a pizza?" and we were both like "what kind of question is that? of course!" he brought out a white pie with bleu cheese and grapes on it, and, hand to god, it was the best thing ever. more finely, I'm a toppings anarchist and a dough/sauce leftist, if only because I'm skeptical about whether or not Chicago style (delicious no doubt) is pizza or a doughy casserole.
2. My pizza cognition was always local joints because Philly is right in the southern girth of the Pizza Belt - https://www.gawker.com/the-pizza-belt-the-most-important-pizza-theory-youll-r-743629037
The pizza belt is a concept I SWEAR I've heard of, but reading this article it seemed novel, yet accurate, to me.
It makes sense to me as well - if for no other reason than I was struck, when I moved to Providence from LA, that even the local pizza places that were supposedly "just okay" were providing pretty decent pizza for the money.
I am a free spirit when it comes to pizza. Put on what you like! The only thing I don't like on a pizza is onion, but that's a matter of overall preference. I've come around to peppers, as a kid that was a deal breaker. I prefer a thicker crust, but will eat a tavern cut if it's on the plate.
Being so open to toppings and styles, I guess that means I don't have a favorite. Artichoke might be the most underappreciated topping on a pizza, while pepperoni would get my vote for most overrated. Too much and the pie ends up a rag full of grease.
Also, wanted to say that I loved your kids' craftsmanship. I kinda figured they would just throw every last topping you put out like kids tend to do when given a plethora of options, creating a mess of inedible dough, cheese and toppings. We usually have to limit the choices to 3 or 4.
I was ready for a long winded diatribe about how the Constitution was a living document and that pizza is too. Thankfully you will not terrorize me with strict/originalist (complete white guy BS)/liberal/activist theories. And leave the pizza be.
Pizza Express in Cadiz, OH would be my origin pizzeria. It's a take out place that just seems to get it right with the sauce, cheese, pepperoni/mushrooms. Which would also be the origin point for my pizza experience. Truth be told, when Costco and Sam's Club made their take and bake pizzas (RIP) they served as the blank canvas for many experiments and additional toppings.
Pizza is suppose to be fun, communal, and serve either the lead in a dinner or the accompanying side to an experience. If you can make the flavors work, go for whatever toppings you want. You should always be able to get a slice some place at any time of day.
I live now in the SW Burbs of Chicago, and let me tell you:
I miss slices of pizza.
Everything here is tavern style -- no crusts, cut into weird squares and the random rounded outside pieces, and while I appreciate that all pizzas (tavern-style, deep dish, Detroit-style, etc.) have their time and place and can be good, what I really want is a slice with a crust. Tavern style all the time is an abomination.
My platonic ideal of pizza is probably something Neopolitan/wood-fired/brick-oven style -- thin crust, red sauce that avoids being sweet, mozzarella (bonus for burrata or buffalo mozzarella), some basil, perhaps some soppressata/pepperoni. Basically a Margherita or Rosso Diavolo. I'll go with a less-traditional pizza happily on occasion (figs/pears/gorgonzola, my wife makes a great BLT pizza, perhaps one with chicken) but the Neopolitan style is definitely my go-to ideal preference.
As a kid, my platonic ideal was a deep dish Meat Lovers from Pizza Hut. Even at non-chain pizza joints, I tend to gravitate towards the carnivorous varieties; however, I’m game to try most any pizza topping. Vegetable-heavy toppings are the exception, as I have a reaction to the texture of certain vegetables on a pizza. As far as style goes: Neapolitan, chain (except Papa John’s), local pie slinger - I’ll eat any style.
Agree with you chain exception most heartily
/still upset at door ding from a pj driver
I have to send a shout-out to a local restaurant that features a pear-and-brie pizza on their menu. I have had it many times, and let e tell you, it is good.
California Pizza Kitchen used to make a pear and gorgonzola pizza with an arugula salad on it that was delicious.
*me
Greek style pizza is widely available throughout the Northeast (anyplace that has “Town” House of Pizza is more likely than not, Greek) and will forever be my baseline for pizza judgment (love you Gorham House of Pizza).
As the lone adventurous eater in the family, it’s hard to do a whole pie with some non-traditional toppings. The one exception is from Otto in Portland Maine: mashed potato, bacon, scallion and cheddar (it pairs well with their butternut squash, ricotta and cranberry pie).
When we make pizza at home, we’ll let the kids make their own creations (often times splitting a package of pepperoni between the two of them if we’re not watching close enough) and my wife and I will go off the rails. The last one we did was a garlic/herb cheese base with shaved Brussels sprouts, prosciutto and once out of the pizza oven (Webber on high) topped with more sprouts and balsamic glaze.
Sign me up for all types of pizza/pies including covered meat pies aka pot pies.
I’ll even eat pizza made on bagels or tortillas.
I do try avoid mushrooms, anchovies and other things not related to edible substances.
Best part of this column is that you got the kids involved in something you enjoy. Can’t wait to see their pancake shapes and burrito creations in future newsletters. Geaux ActionCookingWithChildren
I'm closer to your friend than to you I'm sorry to say. I'm a stickler that to be called pizza it has to have bread, sauce and cheese, but I'd allow any topping under the sun as long as those are the base. Anything else is a flatbread. It could be delicious! But it's flatbread.
Ahh, see, but here's the trick. Almost all of the wacky pizzas I list have bread, sauce and cheese.
then they are pizzas! (in my estimation). And truthfully it's due to a failing in my brain where I assume that if a restaurant says pizza then it comes and there isn't bread sauce and cheese I'm terribly disappointed.
Oh, now, I share your disappointment there.
I will never forget when I found out that my preferred hometown pizza place—there were a number local spots within driving distance of our house, god bless New Jersey, so we often rotated who picked which spot—changed their sauce. This sauce had persisted through multiple name changes, including, originally and hilariously, Chicken Kitchen. When I left for my freshman year of college, it had been the same as always: slightly sweeter than average and very garlic forward. And importantly, it was undeniably fresh as hell.
When I returned home, college girlfriend in tow, I was so excited to show it to her. And then I bit in and it was… just some obviously jarred shit. Not bad (it’s New Jersey pizza, making that bad is nearly impossible), but just… average. I was devastated, my girlfriend thought it was exquisite (she was from the Midwest having a Jersey slice for the first time so she can be forgiven), and I’ll never forgive them.
Rumor around town is that there had been a family spot, and the family member that broke away took the pizza sauce with them. No one even thought to ask me to mediate (I would not have been helpful). Anyways, you didn’t really ask this but it’s absolutely part of my Pizza Cognition (“real” pizza is New York/New Jersey style, everything is is whatever).
My theory is that your rigidity around pizza is tied to where you're from. Are you from a place where pizza is part of the cultural fabric (i.e., where Italian immigrants typically settled in America)? If so, you probably have a traditionalist view of pizza shaped by the people who made it, consciously and subconsciously. People not from those areas have less baggage around what belongs on pizza because pizza isn't part of your heritage or sense of place.
However, despite being a New Yorker, I have a pretty open-mind about pizza. I love the geographical variation of pizza - Chicago deep dish, chicago thin crust, detroit-style, trendy-Neapolitan-style are all great. I'm open to a variation of toppings but generally believe that the typical toppings are typical because they're the best. My most traditionalist take is the fruit (other than tomatoes, obviously) does not belong on pizza. But do what you like! Not here to shame people for doing ham and pineapple on pizza, I just won't be splitting it with you.
My ideal pizza? Well, it simply doesn't get better than a chicken parm slice and cheese slice from a proper New York (metro area) pizzeria .
Since I was able to order my own pizza age always was meat lovers, the more protein the better until the last few months. Recently have just taken to ordering the simple pepperoni. A thing I do prefer is that if it’s a crispier pizza it’s cut into smaller squares to allow for ease of handing. Pizza place by high school knew my name and order because of that order request.
Rocco’s Pizza in South Bend, IN is the definition of pizza for me. It goes beyond the pies, though, in that’s it’s an important community space. The owners, Linda and Warren, are excited to see you when you visit home. It’s basically impossible to go without running into several tables of people you know. The pizza is great, and even reminds my New Jersey dad of “the old neighborhood,” which is a tough test. But it’s the people that make it special.
Chicago guy here so deep-dish Italian sausage pizza is at the top of my pizza ladder. Everything else is one or more rungs below.
I do love the "solid, edge-to-edge disc of sausage" Chicago pie
I will always think of Chicago as America's food maximalist city.
I'm not sure this analogy quite works, but Chicago style is turning the bass all the way up, and St. Louis style is turning the treble all the way up.
Growing up in Chicago in the 1980s/90s, I had a dual definition of pizza: Chicago-style and Dominos. I still eat the former on occasion when visiting Chi-town, but haven't had the latter in...decades, I think? These days I'm definitely a pizza activist like you, Scott. The more the merrier!